![]() Tip Go VERY slowly when first threading the water pump. I also cleaned the control arm and splash guard - anything that had rust on it. I also flowed water through the top radiator hose to backflush the head and wash away the scrubbed rust powder. Picture 3: I took this chance to clean up the rust coating. There was quite a bit of play and a lot of resistance. Picture 2: This is the old and new pump comparison. Tighten the bolts using the star method (as if you were tightening your wheels) - check the manual for torque specs. Put two bolts in the pump and navigate the pump onto the block (the two bolts keep the gasket aligned). Wipe the mating surface clean and apply some gasket dressing to the surface of the new gasket. The factory gasket is made out of metal, so it should come off easily. Tap on the pump and it should break free no problem. The pump will probably be seized on the block. 5 Bolts secure the water pump to the block. Tip Learn from my mistake, do this from above - unless you need a shower. Clear away everything from under your car - it will get wet otherwise. You will also need to remove the PS tension guide bracket as it is also bolted on to the water pump. Picture 1: First you need to remove the idler pulley as it is attached to the water pump. Now we are all ready to go about our business of taking the pump and/or T-belt off. Tip For this bolt, use a deep well socket wink.gif It makes the job easier. Now, we can remove the lower T-belt cover. DO NOT use a lubricant as you may get it in the T-belt area place biggrin.gif Careful, that pulley is heavy for its size. Wiggling back and forth a lot will help it come free. Be patient, its on a keyway and is a very low tolerance item (tight fit). This will break the bolt free and make your job 2000% easier wink.gif Once the bolt is off, remove the pulley. Place your wrench on the bolt and wedge it into the ground, if its too high off the ground, use a length of pipe as a cheater bar. Remove all bolts pull the cover away from the head (there are metal guides to keep it aligned) and lif the cover straight out. I am pretty sure all of the bolts use a 10mm wrench. Don't forget to remove the two bolts that secure the hose to the VC. Again I am sorry, I forgot to take pictures of this step. Now, without disconnecting hoses, remove the PS pump. ![]() Once enough tension has been relieved remove the belt. Now, with a 14mm wrench, begin the slow process of loosening the pump by turning that bolt. There is another 14mm bolt that goes through the head and attaches to the PS pump support bracket. Once it is a little loose, look at where the PS bracket attaches to the head. First you need to loosen that bolt with a 14mm wrench. That locks the PS pump to the tensioner track. ![]() Just below the PS pump is another bolt like thing. That is the bolt that apples tension to the PS pulley. If you look just in front / below the PS pump, you will see a long threaded bolt. Remove the PS belt guard with a philips screw driver head, there are two bolt/screws. Sorry I neglected to take pictures of this - but I can offer help if you don't know how. Its just cosmetic and several frequent oil changes clear it up. Both work just fine, but HLA's can clog easily causing valve tap. *** Perfect time to check your valve clearance for you guys with solid lifters (98+) The 93-97 model years used hydraulic lash adjustment (HLA) as opposed to solid lifters used in the 98-2002 design. My tensioner had play in the bearing but my idler was in great shape. Tools and Parts: # New Timing Belt # New (or reman) Water Pump # Tensioner Spring # Tensioner Pulley (if higher mileage)* # Idler Pulley (If VERY high mileage) * # VC Gasket* # Gasket Scrapper # Torque Wrench ** # Jack, Stands, Wood Blocks # Black RTV sealant (I do not recommend "Ultra Black") # Metric Allen/hex Key set (Or 1/4" - may require sanding to fit) # Plastic Baggies and Sharpie # Piece of Cardboard # Feeler Gauge Set *** *If you have the ability, wait and see if the old one is still good - I changed at 74K miles. I did not have to replace my T-belt, my water pump died and because replacement involves removing the T-belt, I did so as a precaution. A pretty nice idea because if your timing belt breaks for some reason, you'll avoid the cost of new valves and tearing down the head. That means that the lowest point that the valves reach is HIGHER than the highest point the piston can reach. First off, this is a non-interference engine design.
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